If you read our AW22 trends report back in March, you’ll be familiar with the looks we’re currently seeing everywhere across London street style and on shelves right now. The fuchsia frenzy kickstarted by Valentino is still burning brighter than ever, but now we turn our eyes to the trends we’ll be seeing come spring.
We can’t start this blog without mentioning the Queen’s passing on 8th September and the impact felt on runways at London Fashion Week. References to the late monarch were abound with David W. Fletcher and Bora Aksu observing an introductory one-minute silence, and Halpern showcasing its admiration by opening with a floor-length blue taffeta gown and headscarf evocative of past statement Royal looks.
Amongst the multi-layered references, designers presented bold, bright and bedazzled collections indicating an optimistic look towards 2023. Sequins were used almost unanimously, florals reared their head again and designers proved that Molly Goddard is no longer the only designer to expertly use tulle.
The less said about Kanye West the better, but headline moments from the SS23 shows were plenty, as you’ll soon discover below. How could we ignore the incredible Bella Hadid having a liquid fibre dress sprayed onto her body by Coperni in Paris? The spray-on fabric, developed by Spanish scientists, is made up of natural and synthetic fibres and proved an incredible spectacle for those in attendance. In Milan, meanwhile, Gucci took the twin-set trend to new heights, but first, let’s find out how black made a statement befitting the strange and sombre fashion week we experienced in London…
Back to black
A designer renowned for the use of bold colours and floral prints, Richard Quinn presented a collection in mourning with the first twenty-two looks debuting top-to-toe black. The show came just a day after Her Majesty’s funeral, and four years after she sat front row at the designer’s debut show to present him with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II award for British design.
Quinn and his team turned the collection around in a mere 10 days, stitching black lace veils, dresses and headpieces with inspiration deeply rooted in the Victorian era. Quinn appeared to mirror Queen Victoria’s response to the death of her beloved husband, Prince Albert, favouring black for her remaining reign. Black looks opened the collections of David W. Fletcher and S.S. Daley, whilst JW Anderson closed with a black t-shirt reading “Her Majesty The Queen, 1926-2022, Thank you”. Statement black looks will undoubtedly persevere into 2023, but thankfully alongside a plethora of more colourful outfits as well.
Floral for spring… Groundbreaking
Florals populated many SS23 collections, but in London, this felt especially reminiscent of the tributes being laid outside Windsor Castle and at the gates of Buckingham Palace. After the all-black opening, Richard Quinn returned to his signature patterning and Simone Rocha presented floral themes throughout as she debuted her first-ever menswear offering. Somewhat predictable at first but, as proven in September, florals continue to resonate because they symbolise fresh optimism, development and the power to heal, which is surely timeless.
Sequin splendour
Opulent evening looks adorned this year’s cohort of supermodels, with an unforgettable appearance from both Bella and Gigi Hadid as they slinked down the Tom Ford runway in sequinned splendour. Toeing the line between glamour and bad taste has always been a Tom Ford speciality, but this year designers such as Brandon Maxwell and Halpern joined ranks with a mixture of showstopping evening looks and nightclub-ready styles. Tom Ford’s SS23 collection comes nine months after cancelling his AW22 show due to a Covid outbreak amongst staff, and it was a conspicuous return to say the least. We’ll almost certainly be seeing the closing sequinned gowns on red carpets everywhere ahead of upcoming awards seasons.
Tulle takes over
Molly Goddard has long been the cutting-edge influence when it comes to tulle, but the SS23 collections of Simone Rocha and Erdem offer new and vibrant perspectives on the tricky fabric. As with her use of florals, the enduring femininity across Simone Rocha’s work translated well into menswear and showed tulle can be incorporated into everyday outfits. Of course, Molly Goddard maintained her reputation for innovation using this material. The designer showcased complexity and contrast with semi-sheer looks that drew the eye to her signature ruffles, as well as the provocative nudity peeking through underneath. If in doubt, take your cues from Simone Rocha and use florals, sequins and tulle in one spectacular ensemble this coming spring.
Twin Sets
Often associated with iterations of formal workwear, London Fashion Week rejuvenated the twin set with a playful ‘clashy matchy’ take on the trend featuring quirky patterns, edgy silhouettes and killer western boots. Imagine western fashion in Little House on the Prairie and then pair it with bright turquoise cowboy boots for a Molly Goddard special in fashion contrast. This carried over into Christopher Kane’s show where traditional frills and lace met a skin overlay which create a rib cage effect to startling effect.
Vivienne Westwood’s SS23 collection was titled Born to Rewild, focusing on floral prints and a clashing London landscape dotted with areas of nature against the backdrop of high-rise buildings. The collection retains iconic Westwood references like tartan, corsetry, and punk, with a pink bomber jacket and mini skirt look that our fashion team would be ‘ready-to-wear’ anywhere.
Twins in twin sets!
We cannot discuss twin sets without mentioning the 68 sets of twins that walked the Gucci show in Milan. Scouts were sent to the annual Twins Day Festival in Ohio to scout the most runway-ready identical siblings, for the most remarkable display of contrast and symmetry. When assessing the collection vertically, nothing seemed to match and yet, horizontally, everything appeared the same when a screen lifted midway through the show. Once unveiled, you could be forgiven for thinking Gucci had simply used a mirror; this only elevated the impact when the twins joined hands as they crossed the room for their final walk. As the words ‘I am not a clone, a duplicate, a copycat’ were heard over the music, Gucci managed to combine the deeply personal nature of identity in fashion whilst also symbolising the power of solidarity and belonging.
September saw great sadness for many, but we also saw the power of solidarity in mourning and celebrating an icon of style and leadership. Contrast was everywhere, deeply embedded in complex collections, and never more than with the combined sadness and optimism on display at London Fashion Week. Black was bold and respectful, whilst florals aptly paid tribute and signalled growth.
In Milan, New York and Paris, designers went for glamour. Come spring, be ready to dress up to the nines and don’t forget to bring your twin along as the ultimate style accessory.
