Last season colourful, bright hues such as sunshine yellow and electric pink reigned supreme, denim made a comeback and political, power dressing was the main topic of conversation. SS18 sees a shift to lighter pastel shades, but suits and blazers are still set to remain a wardrobe essential.
Four cities, four weeks, countless shows and plenty of catwalk drama. Following on from one of the fashion industry’s busiest periods of the year, we have collated the top trends displayed in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
SS18 Womenswear – Colours
It seems SS18 wasn’t ready to give up last season’s most talked about colour palette and a cohort of designers are in agreement! From Christopher Kane, Emporio Armani and Gucci’s pastel suiting to the vibrant flush of Molly Goddard’s flowing silks, the catwalks made it clear this apparently ever-popular shade can be worn from day to night, whatever the occasion.
Whilst pink is remaining the colour of the season – for both men’s and womenswear – SS18 is moving away from the bold primaries and favouring pastel tones. The runways were populated with subtler hues, such as the parma-violet explosion seen at Victoria Beckham’s presentation. Tibi and Tom Ford proved pastels don’t have to be girly, with careful colour matching and looser styles bringing a fresh perceptive to a subdued palette.
SS18 Womenswear – Prints and Shape
In the words of Miranda Priestly “Florals, for spring? How ground-breaking!”
However, it seems flower power is fighting back and will be a wardrobe staple next spring. The likes of Loewe, Erdem, Hellesey and Ulla were all spotted embracing florals over fashion month for a suitably feminine, delicate style that is ideal as the months get warmer. Florals were also given an edgier look on the catwalks, as shown by Brock and Ulla Johnson, by pairing daring transparent materials and adding combat boots to offset the prettier colours.
In a stark contrast to AW17, SS18 has suited up and booted athleisure off the runways. However, the trend remains somewhat present, with Tibi’s show giving formal suiting a comfier, contemporary refresh. One thing remains certain; you should own an oversized blazer in your favourite neutral tone come spring.
If you’re one to save the sparkles for the festive season, then that’s all going to change next Spring. In both London and New York, sequins have reigned supreme, in all forms, from blazers, accessories, dresses and trousers. Halpern, Ashish, JW Anderson and Tom Ford were all aboard the sequin train as they playfully mixed bold, primary colours with a diverse range of styles.
From shredded hems at Loewe, to heavy silk fringing and military-inspired feather plumes at Nina Ricci, trimmings are set to steal the spotlight in SS18. Subtle touches they are not – fringing and feathers are very much intended as the star of the show, as evidenced by Marco de Vincenzo’s magnificently tiered dresses. This is a trend for the sartorially bold.
The pencil skirt reigned strong on SS18 catwalks, with Balenciga, Hermes, and Off-White forming entire collections around the garment. It’s evidently clear that 1950’s inspirations are hard at work here but with a feisty update, mixing an assortment of patterns and colours for a moodier style. It seems socks look set to be a key accessory again this season but this time paired with heels instead of sandals.
SS18 Womenswear – Shorts
From bike shorts to Bermuda shorts, all the shorts made a play for the limelight at this year’s fashion weeks. The most appealing options include trusty short trousers, high-waisted and worn with metallic blouses at Isabel Marant; hot-pant styles with a distinctly futuristic edge at Paco Rabanne, and a bermuda iteration, cut lean and looking chic when paired with slick double-breasted blazers at Off-White. This is the shot in the leg your summer wardrobe needs now.
Next summer, the ties won’t just be around your neck, they’ll be around your waist. Whilst there were field jackets and blousons aplenty at the SS18 shows in London, one of the most interesting riffs on outwear came in the form of belted mid-length and longline jackets. Mostly using light cottons, waist ties were on show in a variety of wearable colours including beige and navy – as well as a few purples!
…and here it is again! The warm blush rose that seems to be everywhere is set to continue its omnipresence in SS18. However, we will see it expand into other shades, with bursts of eye-popping hot pink appearing at Comme des Garcons presentation. Despite its youthful, playful tone even designers such as Fendi, Valentino and Oliver Spencer sported the colour.
A major trend at both London and Milan Fashion Week was layering. In Milan, Fendi blended corporate wear with sportswear, layering nineties-inspired jackets over shirts and finished off looks with a jacket. Although most people might associate spring / summer as a time for shorts, new fashion collections presented in London reflected upon diversity within the city, including ever-changing climates.
Over the past few seasons check seems to be having a continuous moment in menswear and it’s clearer than ever after shows from Moncler and MSGM it’s becoming a certified staple. The styles varied hugely, from checked pieces with a youthful twist to heavier, outdoor pieces to sophisticated, well-cut jackets.
Another notable menswear trend for SS18, is the oversized blazer, particularly at the men’s fashion presentations in Paris. The likes of Comme des Garcons, Kenzo and Balenciaga took the trend one step further and bravely contrasted the large formal wear with shorts – perfect for spring evenings!
Introducing next year’s hottest styling trick: the shirt tuck. Catwalks over the recent years has seen guys wearing shirts and tees as dresses in homage to hip-hop’s finest, but SS18 is saying good riddance to longline and hello to a new, nerdier way to wear tops. No doubt inspired by the 90’s dad aesthetic, it has been championed by the so-awkward-it’s-cool brigade comprising labels such as Gosha Rubchinskiy, Prada and GmbH.
SS18 brought us a hugely varied composition of styles, colours and quirks, it will be interesting to see whether pink will remain the reigning colour of 2018 or if another shade can successful steal its crown. In the meantime, we look forward to seeing how runway trends translate onto the high street over the next few months, and in what way bloggers and influencers take inspiration from these new SS18 styles.